Day 1
Two hundred miles brought us to Montana State University in Bozeman, where we met several professors, undergrads, and post-docs working under the freshly minted Sustainable Food and Bioenergy Systems Degree. Another 90 some miles through rolling grasslands brought us to the Moe Ranch. With their house beautifully set beside the Musselshell River, the Moes are trying to diversify beyond their already successful ranching enterprise so that they can continue to make a living on the land and make that an option for their children, something most families can no longer do. They're leasing land to a wind energy entrepreneur and have purchased a Montana grain and cereal distribution company with another couple.
Day 2
We visited a nearby Hutterite colony to check out their garden, cement mixing plant, wind turbines, and kitchen/water recycling complex. It was intriguing to see the way they too are trying to diversify and use their resources wisely to maintain the lifestyle of the 143 people, just over 30 families, living on the colony.
We then toured the Cream of the West operation (an almost 100 year old business here in Montana) the Moes (and business partners) have brought to Harlowton to provide a few jobs in town and more diversity in their business plans. Following our time with them, we set off for Shepherd, about 35 minutes north of Billings, to the Charter Ranch, where we set up tents for the night. Watch out for rattlesnakes and cacti!
Day 3
Our morning with the Charters was full of animated discussion about coal mining, cattle ranching, decentralization, carbon sequestration, and sustainable food production activism. As you have probably guessed, this isn't the average ranching conversation in rural Montana. Nor are these your average ranchers. With a deep sense of connection with the land, the cattle, the neighboring ranchers, and a desire to fight for and work hard to promote what is good and right, the Charters make differences every day with the way they have chosen to stay on and treat the land.
A short drive through Billings and into neighboring Laurel brought us to a century-old corner diner, the Owl Cafe. As you might expect, this restaurant had become a cornerstone of the community. So when a hometown boy returned from culinary school with the idea of bringing real, good, and local food to the menu, not everyone was pleased. Dirk Frickel brought us back into his kitchen and for the next hour, he and his friend, Eric Trager of Bridgecreek Backcountry Kitchen (another local food advocate and chef, although located in upscale Red Lodge), stepped us through the cooking process of the entire meal. And man, was it delicious! Grilled local asparagus salad with organic cottage bacon, smoked almonds, and Parmesan cheese. Grilled Sweetgrass lamb skewers with garam masala, creamed lentils, and fried organic goat cheese croquettes (new favorite!) with local rhubarb chutney. Tomato basil granita. And to round it all off, organic ricotta goat cheese crepes with Grand Marnier and fresh berries. OooEee.
Day 4
We had the pleasure of seeing and discussing the massive Sysco distribution enterprise in Billings (it's strange to think that there are hundreds more warehouses like it around the country). It brought to home the importance of sale and transportation of food, weather it is grown locally or traveling thousands of miles to your plate in a restaurant, hospital, school, or other institution.
A short afternoon drive to Billings brought us to the beautiful LEED Platinum Certified offices of the Northern Plains Resource Council and the Western Organization of Resource Councils, organizing and leadership training ordinary citizens to protect their water quality, family farms and ranches, and rural communities.
220 miles (and a stop at the famous Montana bar in Miles City) to Makoshika State Park to sleep with the dinosaur bones.
Day 5
In Glendive, we spent the morning seeing the myriad projects an extension agent and local food supporters were working on. From a community garden, to a food and marketing co-op, to hopes for a commercial kitchen, restaurant, and cooking school. Very inspiring and overwhelming.
We spent the afternoon and evening at the Hoff farm, visiting in their garden and beside the Yellowstone river. Alvin grows beans, Dena tends the gardens. They have various ducks and chickens and at least one hundred sheep. He loves projects like his rhubarb wine and showing off the latest graft on a tiny apple tree.
They've raised a houseful of kids and plenty of good food. You wouldn't know she is off in far flung regions of the world representing family farms through Via Campesina and as president of the National Family Farm Coalition (her involvement began with local and regional organizations like those in Glendive and Billings). We all enjoyed a nice dinner in a little cabin on the other side of the vast bean fields at the edge of the river before heading out.
Day 6
We arrived at the Waller's farm in Circle, about 70 miles northwest of Glendive. Helen welcomed us to sit at her table and on the floral sofas in her living room. We had sandwiches and lemonade while we waited for her husband to come in. They'd been married for...was it 59 years? The sense of grandparent calm and familiarity was broken when after we finished our lunch and sat around her and his armchair she cut through the cool room with a booming, passionate voice about her involvement with the last several farm bills, the corruption riddling those who should be creating policies to help the people growing the nation's food (instead, loyalty and power goes to the corporation that lobbies and donates the most), and the ineffective structure of current farm policy. Intense. Frustrating. She's a great surprise of a woman, and she's proud of the photo of her and Willie Nelson on the fridge.
Day 7
We spent a stormy night at Fort Peck and spoke with the American Prairie Foundation, facing much strife in the community around Malta and their project site, in the morning.
Our evening was spent on the Matador Ranch with the Program Director of Northern Montana Prairies, learning about how the Nature Conservancy is partnering with local ranchers to promote habitat and wildlife conservation of some of the most contiguous mixed grass prairies in the world.
Day 8
Our original plan was to visit Prairie Heritage Farm in Conrad, where a young couple is making a good go of it, but it will have to wait for another day. We went home to Missoula. :)
